Young-A Lee and her research team have designed a vest and shoe prototype from the cellulosic fiber grown in this lab. Credit: Christopher Gannon, Iowa State University
The fashion industry generates a lot of waste, which is why a team of researchers developed a new fiber that’s 100% biodegradable. Researchers are testing the fiber – made from a green tea byproduct – to see if it’s a viable alternative. Instead of soil and seeds, LeBaron Hall lab plastic bins contain a gel-like film consisting of cellulose fibers – a byproduct of kombucha tea – that feeds off a mixture of vinegar and sugar. The film is grown by using a symbiotic colony of bacteria and yeast (SCOBY). Young-A Lee, an associate professor of apparel, merchandising and design at Iowa State, says the properties of this SCOBY film are similar to leather once it’s harvested and dried, and can be used to make clothing, shoes, handbags.
In a chapter of the book “Sustainable Fibers for Fashion Industry,” Lee writes about the results of her case study of cellulosic fiber. The material has been tested for other applications, eg cosmetics, foods and biomedical tissue for wound dressing, but it is relatively new to the apparel industry.
The cellulose fiber reduces waste by creating a continuous cycle of reuse or regeneration, what is known as cradle-to-cradle design. Even if clothing is recycled or repurposed, it still eventually ends up in the trash. Lee envisions a truly sustainable fabric or material that is biodegradable and goes back into the soil as a nutrient rather than taking up space in a landfill. And using the SCOBY gives new purpose to the tea byproduct, lessening the fashion industry’s dependence on nonrenewable materials.
The tests revealed that one of the biggest problems is moisture absorption from the air and the person wearing the vest or shoes. The moisture softens the material and makes it less durable. Researchers also discovered that cold conditions make it brittle. Mass production is another issue to confront. Lee says it takes around 3-4 weeks, depending on temperature and room conditions, to grow the material in the lab. Her team is working on how, and if it is possible, to reduce the growth cycle for mass production.
More is at stake than just the waste from cheap, disposable clothing. The chemicals used to make the synthetic materials and dye fabrics can contaminate the water and soil, Lee said. The fashion industry is working to do better, but consumers must also be on board. Supporting an environmentally friendly brand is important for many consumers, but the look and feel of the clothing will drive purchase decisions. Lee and her team surveyed college students to gauge their response to a vest prototype made from the cellulose fiber. The majority thought it was made of leather, rawhide, paper or plastic. http://www.news.iastate.edu/news/2016/04/26/sustainableclothing
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